On a beautifully sunny, even
if somewhat breezy, morning in mid-December my nomadic and flaneurial duties
have led me to spend some very pleasant time in a branch of Taste Zone, a newly
created but very comfortable chain of restaurants in Southern China. This
particular outlet has only been open for a few weeks in the town of Chang An
(which, as I discovered recently, roughly translates to 'Everlasting Peace')
but I have found myself frequenting it on several occasions now. The
restaurant /café has rather deep and sumptuous chairs, a relatively good internet
connection and a seductively tempting range of breakfast delights at
outrageously reasonable prices. Added to this, they allow endless refills of
coffee or dou nai (a soya bean based drink), whichever refreshing beverage
happens to be more to the customer's tastes. This particular nomadic flaneur
feels that he could scarcely wish for more!
This has become a preferred place for writing as the nearby
Cafe de Coral seems to attract a few too many mums who sometimes pop in for a
cheap and cheerful breakfast before taking their offspring off to the nearby
school. The children are almost invariably well behaved but very energetic,
something that I have found throughout my travels in China. Oft times, even the
youngest of them seem to enjoy attempting to practice their few words of
English on me. Usually this consists of 'Hello' and 'How are you?” followed by
a look of total incomprehension when I reply. After that, the normal reaction
seems to be to break out in fits of giggles before running back to their
smiling mothers.
This is one feature of Chinese life that is very clear:
they love and cherish their children. This may be because of the one child
policy followed here, or maybe simply because of the underlying Confucian
culture which puts great emphasis on the value of family and relationship. As
is usual with so many of these things, the reality probably lies somewhere
between the two. The culture values children anyway but the realisation that a
family may only ever have one or two children puts even greater value on the
children themselves.
Babies in particular are valued to an extent that is almost
fetishistic by European or American standards. Chang An itself has whole
streets that seem to be mainly dedicated to baby shops. Whereas the larger main
streets of Western cities may have one or, in very exceptional cases, two such
outlets, here in China you may see three or four such shops within just a few
metres of each other, each apparently doing a roaring trade.
The one child policy has been much criticised, particularly
by those in the West who feel it is a great imposition on personal freedom. To
be fair to China though, they are perhaps the only country in the World that
has reacted meaningfully to the ominous and looming problems of overpopulation
that we all face. At the time it was imposed, once again mainly due to the
insight of that most far-sighted and shrewd of politicians, Deng Xiaoping,
China's population has already reached a billion. Twenty five years later the population seems to be peaking at around 1.4 billion and to be achieving the
levels of stability that were first envisioned all those years ago. It is
believed that without Deng's measures there would now have been something like
three hundred million additional citizens living in the People's Republic.
In contrast to this, India's politicians have singularly
failed to even address the issue and their population has nearly doubled over
the same period of time. If projections are to be believed, India will surpass
China as the World's most populace country within the next few years. Given the
relative sizes of the two countries, one feels that a sorry fate awaits the
Indian sub-continent.
An interesting graph to look at is that of the planet's
population over the last two thousand years. It is remarkably steady at around
half a billion all the way up to the industrial revolution. After that it
begins to take off, the line of the graph growing ever steeper and steeper as
we move into the 21st century. At the time of writing, the World's
population presently exceeds seven billion. Clearly, if the numbers go on
increasing at such a rate (and it is hard to see how that could be avoided) we
will reach unsustainable levels in the not very distant future.
Given that, great credit must go to China in this. Most of
the brighter folk around the World seem all too well aware of the imminent
threat of global warming, even if those given to consuming their information
from less reliable sources will be forever in denial. With regards to the
population problem though, there is an almost deafening silence.
China is still a very overcrowded country but they do seem
to have a grip on the problem now. Socially the restrictions of the one child
policy are likely to have many unforeseen effects but, in the short term at
least, one cannot help but be impressed by the individual attitudes of the
parents to their children and by the children themselves. They seem to intuit,
even the youngest of them, that they are loved, that they are appreciated, that
they are cherished. Like children everywhere, the youngest will still throw the
occasional tantrum, tears will occasionally flow, but here such unhappiness
seems to be short lived and the child will quickly be comforted by their
parents, safe and secure in the knowledge that they are wanted, that they are
loved. The smiles soon return.
Back in the café, two hours have passed very pleasantly,
apart from the slightly annoying repetitive playing of Christmas carols; I had
fervently hoped that I had escaped that particular fate when I left the West in
November. Oh well, at least it is not John Lennon, Kirsty McColl and the like;
I guess I should be grateful for such small mercies. I consume yet another cup
of dou nai, a little too sweet for my tastes but the Chinese seem to like their
drinks so. The sun is shining brightly
outside and the day is wearing on. Time to leave now methinks; pleasant as this
place is, there is much to do today and I think I may have indulged in the
seductive pleasures of blogging a tad too
much for one day already.
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