Today my flaneurial duties have drawn me to the luxurious and highly impressive surrounds of a brand new Mall of four floors standing on the edge of the main junction into Chang An. It seems very salubrious and swanky, decorated tastefully with hanging sculptures dangling from the type of roof one that would have made Frank Lloyd Wright proud. Indeed, the whole design of the mall reminds one of the Guggenheim Museum in New York. No doubt this particular architect owes much of his inspiration to the genius of Mr Wright. So close are the features to Wright's design that one could be excused for imagining that the designer in question simply copied the ideas...perish the thought!
Circumstances dictate a limited choice of watering holes in
this monument to commerce, so I find myself taking an Americano and a glass of
water in a franchise of a particularly global, tax-dodging American enterprise.
Oddly, when I asked for 'yi bai shui' (a cup of water) the waitress proceeded,
as per normal, to put ice cubes in the cup, followed, as is usual here, with
hot water (the Chinese rarely drink their water cold). Very strange....
Fortunately, this particular shopping mall seems to be
equipped with a very efficient air cleaning system as normally, on this
particular junction, one does well if one can refrain from coughing for more
than three minutes. I have had the misfortune of having had to wait for buses
on several occasions at this particular environmental black-spot. It could not
be defined as a pleasant experience.
Getting to the bus stop in the first place is a life
threatening experience in itself involving, as it does, the crossing of eight
lanes of traffic. The traffic is 'controlled', and I use the word in the
loosest possible sense, by traffic lights. For many drivers the prohibition of
the red light seems to be merely optional, for taxi drivers it is like a red
rag to a bull. They are more likely to accelerate than slow down in response to such a
provocation. Added to this, it would seem that no law at all applies to the
bicyclists (many electric powered these days, silent assassins ...) and
motorised rickshaw wallahs who quite happily proceed in the opposite direction to
the main stream of traffic – quite comical at times... if it wasn't quite so
terrifying. This trepidatious pedestrian feels himself in mortal peril each and
every time he has the misfortune to have to cross that particular road.
Inside the café, I sit and chat with a friend whilst
observing a group of five youngsters, probably around 15 years of age, sitting
around a table together. None of them though is actually talking to another but
all are absorbed in the process of texting on their smart phones. This is a
very common sight in China and, to be fair, almost everywhere else one goes in
the World these days where these devices are readily available and affordable.
By the look of things, these youngsters seem to be involved in earnest text
conversations with friends not currently present. I often wonder in such
circumstances if, when they finally meet up with the friend they are texting,
they will then spend that time texting the friends they are currently with!?
Apparently a whole new form of etiquette has formed around
the question of the answering of text messages,
American youngsters in particular being prone to its demands. It seems
to receive one and not to respond is considered the height of rudeness. The
fear of being accused of such a social faux pas has lead youngsters to going to
bed with their phones next to the pillows, ever ready to answer such profound
enquiries as 'Are you still awake?'
Once more, it seems that the thing we think we own somehow
ends up owning us...
It is a decidedly odd paradox in modern life that seems to occur with alarming regularity: devices described as 'labour saving' or 'time saving' commonly
have the opposite effect. Mobile phones were touted as saving us time and the
need to be near a static phone – the reality has been that there is now nowhere
to escape to if you have such a device (I often leave mine turned off ...).
The wealthiest societies around the world are equipped with many such 'time saving' devices and yet the more they own the less time people actually seem to have. The opposite is also true, if you look at the 'poorer' societies in the World, the lack of such devices as phones, cars, computers, washing up machines, etc., etc., actually seems to magically leave them with more time. A very curious state of affairs.
The wealthiest societies around the world are equipped with many such 'time saving' devices and yet the more they own the less time people actually seem to have. The opposite is also true, if you look at the 'poorer' societies in the World, the lack of such devices as phones, cars, computers, washing up machines, etc., etc., actually seems to magically leave them with more time. A very curious state of affairs.
This paradox also applies to town and country. The places
where most time saving devices are concentrated, i.e. cities, are at one and
the same time the most frenetic and often least pleasant places, where people
seem to be in a headlong rush to get ... where exactly?
I take another sip of coffee and observe one of the
youngsters now staring at the screen of his device whilst swishing his thumbs back and
forth across the surface as it makes little beeps and whistles. He is strangely
absorbed and yet at the same time agitated, gradually getting more and more
animated in his reactions, his lips curling into agonised grimaces, limbs
occasionally jerking to one side or the other in an attempt to control some
process or another. One feels like telling him, if my Mandarin were good enough
(which it is not) that he is looking at flashing lights on a tiny screen which
is making rather silly little noises ... it really doesn't matter that much. I
would guess the reaction would not be a pleasant one!
Wiser to keep my counsel
methinks...
This coffee shop is quietly efficient but could be located
anywhere on the planet. Indeed, much the same could be said of the shopping
centre itself. A mall, is a mall, is a mall – this one a particularly fine
example of the flattening effect of the globalisation. It is clean, anonymous
and ... completely without character, other than at the most banal and
superficial level. The idea of
'Globalisation' itself has become one of the sacred cows, much like such
erroneous and socially damaging ideas as subjecting every aspect of life to
'market forces'. Its effects have created a world wherein, once one finds
oneself in such a mall, one could be anywhere on the planet.
As someone who considers himself something of a nomad, I
tend to treasure the differences between places, peoples and cultures. In this
way, it is sad to see the world getting smaller and smaller and less and less
diverse. The whole planet appears to be settling into a globalised culture that
is increasingly fast but equally, increasingly shallow and terribly
anonymising. People reduced to being mere consumers, forever rushing around,
whipped into a frenzy by manipulative and ruthless advertising, fearful that
they will lose out on the latest 'bargain'. There seems (fortunately, only
seems ... ) to be but one game in town, and much like the computer game that is
obsessing my fellow customer, it is a pretty superficial and banal game at
best.
My young fellow customer has finally finished swishing away
at his screen and now has returned to his texting duties. I have been writing
for quite some time now but scarcely have any words have passed between the
group of youngsters sitting at the nearby table.
Ah, the joys of the dizzy social world of modern youth...
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