A nice way of putting it...

This week's edition of the blog comes from the cool and pleasant environs of the delightfully named (if somewhat monosyllabic) Ud coffee house on the outskirts of Kanchanaburi. This place has been recommended to me by the ever helpful Heinz, a Swiss ex-pat who seems to have taken up more or less permanent residence in a local guest house and is a veritable mine of useful information. According to Heinz, the staff were friendly, the coffee good, the smoothies better and they were blessed with a rapid and reliable internet connection. What more could a nomadic flaneur ask for ?

During the past week I have had the chance to speak with many ex-pats of various nationalities. Several have expressed concern about the future of Thailand, others were completely blasé. In general though, and for the most part, the majority seem to feel that the current situation is simply 'par for the course' for this country. Those who have been here the longest generally seem more likely to be of the opinion that such coups are a frequent, and sometimes necessary, part of Thai political life. Clearly, the number of tourists is very much down this year but this has its benefits too, especially for those whose life here does not depend on the necessity of earning their living from the dwindling number of visitors. Those that do are somewhat less content...

In particular, there are noticeably less Russians about this year. Kanchanaburi was never particularly popular with them; the site not having the same historical significance as it does for others. Last year, one would often seeing 'luxury' coaches draw up and 50 or 60 Russian sightseers of various shapes and sizes would issue forth, swarm over the Bridge (of 'over the River Kwai' fame) for 20 minutes or so before re-embarking, having ticked off another site on their list. This year, there is scarcely a Russian in sight (or sound) down at the bridge.

Pattaya, in particular, has suffered a huge drop in revenues because of the lack of Russians. The new money had created the appropriate response in that forsaken town, a large number of bars and restaurants catering particularly to the tastes of the (formerly) nouveau riche beneficiaries of Putin's economic miracle. Unfortunately, not only have the tourists from that land had to make a judgement as to the political stability of Thailand, but have also had to deal with a rapidly declining rouble following America's sanctions and the fall in the price of oil. As ever in life though, in most clouds one can find a silver landing; the Russians were perhaps not the most popular of tourists with the Thais although, as ever, they much appreciated the extra revenue.

Most of the non-business owning ex-pats seem largely content with the way things are developing and to feel that there is no problem as long as one avoids getting involved in anything political. For my part, I feel it wise to avoid any potentially problematic areas and keep to more general observations. It is very easy to fall foul of some of the 'catch-all' legislation on the books here. The Generals in charge seem generally to be particularly sensitive to anything that even hints at the possibility of criticism.

During the last week, Daniel Russel, the US Secretary of State for East Asia and the Pacific, whilst visiting Thailand, made a speech in which he expressed America's desire for a quick return to democracy in this country. This did not go down particularly well with the military government and, in particular, with its head, General Prayuth Chan-Ocha, a person perhaps not famed for his patience and tolerance in such matters. A couple of fairly irritated news conferences followed together with a summons to the US Charges d'affaires, Mr. W. Patrick Murphy, who was informed of 'Thailand's' displeasure at Mr. Russel's remarks.

At this stage, a few former Pheu Thai ministers and politicians dared briefly to put their head's above the parapet in support of Russel's speech. This resulted in 'invitations' from the military government to report to army bases for sessions of 'attitude adjustment'. Such euphemistic 'invitations' seem to be much like the 'offer' that could not be refused in 'The Godfather'. Apparently, these adjustments of attitude may take anything from under an hour to overnight sessions, perhaps depending on just how much the attitude in question is in need of adjustment...

Such euphemistic language seems to be much loved by politicians, or even those temporarily acting in political roles. From those who, rather than simply resign, suddenly discover an urgent desire to 'spend more time with their families', to others who, while never actually lying, do admit to 'being economical with the truth' (Former Conservative Defence Minister, Alan Clark and Cabinet Secretary, Robert Armstrong, among many others).

Some years ago, I had the pleasure of working on a dissertation on euphemisms with a very close friend. It was clear that such linguistic niceties were widely used in the political area, but since this particular dissertation was to be delivered at a Chinese university we felt it wiser to steer clear of some of the more sensitive areas. Still, those two euphemistic favourites, sex and death, gave us more than enough material to write several papers.

Death in particular seems to spawn almost endless possibilities, from doctors reporting that their patients were 'now at room temperature' to my personal favourite, when a request to see a particular elderly individual was met with the very pc : 'I am afraid he is no longer playing an active role in the community.'

In Thailand at the moment, the creative use of euphemisms seems to have been elevated to quite wondrous levels. Those behind the coup do not even seem to like the term 'coup', perhaps because of its less than pleasant connotations in other countries, but prefer to call it an element in 'Thai-style democracy'. Mr Russel was chided for the using the term in his speech by the Deputy Foreign Minister Don Paramatwinai. Far from being a coup, at least according to the minister, 'it was in fact a revolution to install stability'.

As something of a lover of the creative use of language, I have to admit to a degree of admiration for the sheer inventiveness of those involved in politics, coups or even 'revolutions to install stability'. The innovative and ingenious use of the language is impressive indeed. One sometimes wonders though, if there is some danger in such language. Those who overuse such terminology in politics often run the risk of being mislead by their own euphemisms, it's an easy trap to fall into...

Back at the Ud coffee house, twilight is beginning to fall and I must ready myself for a crepuscular crawl into town in search of more substantial fayre than is on offer here. As I write these words, life seems very normal in these parts and it is hard to imagine the political tensions of Bangkok impinging to any great extent on the far more docile Kanchanaburi. I sincerely hope this remains the case for the foreseeable future.

Plus ça change....

This week flaneurial remarks originate from the essentially very cool 'Chillhouse' cafe on the River Kwai Bridge Road in Kanchanaburi. It certainly lives up to its name, the air conditioning being left on at a constantly low temperature; so much so in fact that one is almost relieved to leave the place and feel the comfortable warmth of the Thai streets once again. During the heat of the middle of the day though, I am fond of spending an hour or so within its chilled environs. Oddly, one scarcely sees another Westerner there, the cafés regulars being mostly reasonably well-to-do Thais who invariably greet one and all as they enter the premises with the ubiquitous 'Sawadee Khrap' (or 'Sawadee Khaa' even, if they happen to be female). This is often said with a bow of the head and even a clasp of the hands in a prayer like gesture.

Such politeness is an essential in Thailand – the simple acknowledgement of another person's presence and an expression of respect. To experience this once again came as something of a pleasant relief after the indifference (at best) of China. In fact, the first few days here have been spent re-acclimatising myself to the very different culture. There is an expectation here, almost a demand, for politeness and acknowledgement; failure to do so can easily offend, even if unintended. Thailand is very much 'the land of smiles' but one must ensure that one smiles back!

The atmosphere this year feels subtly different though; there is something of an uneasiness about the place that was not readily apparent during previous visits. There is a tension in the air, an almost palpable sense of anxiety, almost of foreboding. When I last left Thailand in April 2014 it was still a place of political chaos and turmoil but that is almost the normal state of affairs in Thailand. It generally lurches from crisis to crisis but somehow, through it all, manages to survive and even, to a certain extent at least, to prosper.

In May of 2014 however, there was a coup, lead by the now Prime Minister, Prayuth Chan-Ocha. Originally, a state of martial law was introduced and a curfew, which must have slowed down the night-life a tad in such places as Patthaya, Bangkok and Chiang Mai. Fortunately now, the worst of the restrictions have been eased and things have got back to something like normal, superficially at least. Coups are not unusual in Thailand, they seem to be a regular political event that punctuates attempts at establishing democracies every few years. There have been accusations, particularly from those aligned with the deposed Pheu Thai government, that the military have not been particularly even-handed and are favouring their opponents with the subsequent changes and the proposed reforms to the democratic process.

The jury is very much still out on the coup and the justifications for the further actions of the new government. There is a sense of dis-ease here though now, possibly even a sense of the dangers of the upcoming challenges to the future of Thailand. Personally, I would like to write more about such issues but, given the state of affairs here and the restrictions, it would seem wise to desist. Many of the issues could not sensibly be discussed without entering into areas that could conceivably fall foul of article 112 of Thai law (that pertaining to 'lese majeste'). Currently, this is being applied very widely here, and there have been several cases of even foreigners being locked up for prolonged jail sentences (between 2 and 15 years) for stepping over what is a very vague line here in Thailand. Those interested may wish to look up the subject online; perhaps after doing so, they will understand my reluctance to address certain issues...

As ever, and as was the case in China, presentation seems to be nine tenths of statistics. Officially there is no problem with the tourist trade but at the street level here in Kanchanaburi things do indeed seem somewhat quieter. At the far end of the River Kwai Bridge Road from where I stay there are a selection of bars where one can find, if one wishes to indulge such tastes, a variety of distractions on offer. The last time I was here these bars were invariably full of Westerners seeking all manner of 'distractions'. This year, when I have had cause to pass that way, they make a sorry sight. Groups of girls in denim shorts and black t-shirts, usually adorned with some suggestive logo, sitting around tables outside the bars, looking vaguely bored as they chat away with each other over the loud music constantly playing in the background, but with ne'er a customer in sight, the inside of the bars completely bereft of clientèle.

Not all such changes are negative of course. Tourism has had a major, and usually negative, effect on the environment here in Thailand. Many of the beaches, for example, had become very overcrowded, littered and subject to the attentions of many of the less savoury characters in Thai society. Many now, such as in Phuket, are more or less back to their former glory. Other aspects of the environment are getting a chance to recover too (one sometimes wonders about the nature of economic success, especially after spending a couple of months in China. Often, the best possible thing for the environment seems to be... a complete lack of economic activity!)

Many of the ex-pats, a trenchant community normally and devoted to their alternative lifestyles in Thailand, seem to have packed up and left. Those that remain seem conscious of the need to keep a low profile and not risk drawing the attention of the powers that be. It is hard to tell where all this will lead in the coming months and years. Personally, I intend to stay for a couple of months and then perhaps leave for quite some time, or at least until the current situation has resolved itself to some extent.

From my point of view, it would be a shame not to spend at least some time here as, for me at least, it always strikes me as a tremendously beautiful country. Life positively teems here in ways that are, at times, quite staggering to behold. As pointed out in previous blogs, day-to-day life has many drawbacks and complications, mainly caused by the politics and the underlying culture, though that same culture has much to recommend it too. In recent years when I have come to Thailand, despite being well aware of many of the problems, the pluses have very definitely outweighed the minuses. This year, on my most recent visit, this perhaps can no longer be said. The people are still pleasant, it is still 'the land of smiles', but those smiles sometimes seem somewhat strained these days. Buddhism, and particularly the Thai version (Therevada) is as absorbing as ever. The fascinating flora and fauna remain forever beautiful and forever abundant. But beyond all this... one cannot help but wonder where Thailand is heading and does one want to be anywhere near this country when it gets there...

Back in the Chillhouse I sip my very generous blueberry smoothie. The original Americano was finished long ago during one of several edits and rewrites of this particular edition of the blog. One is conscious of the need to be careful here and to skirt around certain areas and issues 'just in case'. One of the reasons for enjoying the Chillhouse is its selection of newspapers on a charmingly old fashioned teak stand as one enters the premises. Reading the previously redoubtable Bangkok Post, always a fine newspaper and an informative read on previous visits, one is struck with just how carefully the articles are now phrased. One learns as much from what is not directly stated as from what is. It has become, at least as far as Thai news is concerned, a very much 'between-the-lines' read.

It is difficult to see how things will turn out here but the developments since I was last in Thailand, a mere nine months ago, have been drastic indeed. Many things that one took for granted are no longer possible in the current climate. It is difficult to guess how all this will pan out over the coming few months but, for my part, I think I may well be inclined to keep my flaneurial activities to somewhat less potentially volatile situations in somewhat less volatile places...