This week's
edition of the blog comes from the cool and pleasant environs of the
delightfully named (if somewhat monosyllabic) Ud coffee house on the
outskirts of Kanchanaburi. This place has been recommended to me by
the ever helpful Heinz, a Swiss ex-pat who seems to have taken up
more or less permanent residence in a local guest house and
is a veritable mine of useful information. According to Heinz, the
staff were friendly, the coffee good, the smoothies better and they
were blessed with a rapid and reliable internet connection. What more
could a nomadic flaneur ask for ?
During the
past week I have had the chance to speak with many ex-pats of various
nationalities. Several have expressed concern about the future of
Thailand, others were completely blasé. In general though, and for
the most part, the majority seem to feel that the current situation
is simply 'par for the course' for this country. Those who have been
here the longest generally seem more likely to be of the opinion that
such coups are a frequent, and sometimes necessary, part of Thai
political life. Clearly, the number of tourists is very much down
this year but this has its benefits too, especially for those whose
life here does not depend on the necessity of earning their living
from the dwindling number of visitors. Those that do are somewhat
less content...
In
particular, there are noticeably less Russians about this year.
Kanchanaburi was never particularly popular with them; the site not
having the same historical significance as it does for others. Last
year, one would often seeing 'luxury' coaches draw up and 50 or 60
Russian sightseers of various shapes and sizes would issue forth,
swarm over the Bridge (of 'over the River Kwai' fame) for 20 minutes or so
before re-embarking, having ticked off another site on their list.
This year, there is scarcely a Russian in sight (or sound) down at
the bridge.
Pattaya, in
particular, has suffered a huge drop in revenues because of the lack
of Russians. The new money had created the appropriate response in
that forsaken town, a large number of bars and restaurants catering
particularly to the tastes of the (formerly) nouveau riche
beneficiaries of Putin's economic miracle. Unfortunately, not only
have the tourists from that land had to make a judgement as to the
political stability of Thailand, but have also had to deal with a
rapidly declining rouble following America's sanctions and the fall
in the price of oil. As ever in life though, in most clouds one can
find a silver landing; the Russians were perhaps not the most popular
of tourists with the Thais although, as ever, they much appreciated
the extra revenue.
Most of the
non-business owning ex-pats seem largely content with the way things
are developing and to feel that there is no problem as long as one
avoids getting involved in anything political. For my part, I feel it
wise to avoid any potentially problematic areas and keep to more
general observations. It is very easy to fall foul of some of the
'catch-all' legislation on the books here. The Generals in charge
seem generally to be particularly sensitive to anything that even
hints at the possibility of criticism.
During the
last week, Daniel Russel, the US Secretary of State for East Asia and
the Pacific, whilst visiting Thailand, made a speech in which he
expressed America's desire for a quick return to democracy in this
country. This did not go down particularly well with the military
government and, in particular, with its head, General Prayuth
Chan-Ocha, a person perhaps not famed for his patience and tolerance
in such matters. A couple of fairly irritated news conferences
followed together with a summons to the US Charges d'affaires, Mr. W.
Patrick Murphy, who was informed of 'Thailand's' displeasure at Mr.
Russel's remarks.
At this
stage, a few former Pheu Thai ministers and politicians dared briefly
to put their head's above the parapet in support of Russel's speech.
This resulted in 'invitations' from the military government to report
to army bases for sessions of 'attitude adjustment'. Such
euphemistic 'invitations' seem to be much like the 'offer' that could
not be refused in 'The Godfather'. Apparently, these adjustments of
attitude may take anything from under an hour to overnight sessions,
perhaps depending on just how much the attitude in question is in
need of adjustment...
Such
euphemistic language seems to be much loved by politicians, or even
those temporarily acting in political roles. From those who, rather
than simply resign, suddenly discover an urgent desire to 'spend more
time with their families', to others who, while never actually lying,
do admit to 'being economical with the truth' (Former Conservative
Defence Minister, Alan Clark and Cabinet Secretary, Robert Armstrong,
among many others).
Some years
ago, I had the pleasure of working on a dissertation on euphemisms
with a very close friend. It was clear that such linguistic niceties
were widely used in the political area, but since this particular
dissertation was to be delivered at a Chinese university we felt it
wiser to steer clear of some of the more sensitive areas. Still,
those two euphemistic favourites, sex and death, gave us more than
enough material to write several papers.
Death in
particular seems to spawn almost endless possibilities, from doctors
reporting that their patients were 'now at room temperature' to my
personal favourite, when a request to see a particular elderly
individual was met with the very pc : 'I am afraid he is no longer
playing an active role in the community.'
In Thailand
at the moment, the creative use of euphemisms seems to have been
elevated to quite wondrous levels. Those behind the coup do not even
seem to like the term 'coup', perhaps because of its less than
pleasant connotations in other countries, but prefer to call it an
element in 'Thai-style democracy'. Mr Russel was chided for the using
the term in his speech by the Deputy Foreign Minister Don Paramatwinai. Far from being
a coup, at least according to the minister, 'it was in fact a
revolution to install stability'.
As
something of a lover of the creative use of language, I have to admit
to a degree of admiration for the sheer inventiveness of those
involved in politics, coups or even 'revolutions to install
stability'. The innovative and ingenious use of the language is
impressive indeed. One sometimes wonders though, if there is some
danger in such language. Those who overuse such terminology in
politics often run the risk of being mislead by their own euphemisms,
it's an easy trap to fall into...
Back at the
Ud coffee house, twilight is beginning to fall and I must ready
myself for a crepuscular crawl into town in search of more
substantial fayre than is on offer here. As I write these words, life
seems very normal in these parts and it is hard to imagine the
political tensions of Bangkok impinging to any great extent on the far more
docile Kanchanaburi. I sincerely hope this remains the case for the
foreseeable future.
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