This week's flaneurial
thoughts come from the relatively recently found dada (not
capitalized) café in the town of Epping, which lays claim to have the
highest High Road in the whole of Essex ( a dizzying 332 feet above
sea level). The café is small but perfectly formed. Apart
from a very exotic, if somewhat expensive, range of teas and some
very strong coffee, they also serve a range of snacks and quiches,
employing what seem to be former roof tiles instead of plates. If
nothing else, it lends new meaning to the phrase 'put mine on the
slate...'.
Reading the café’s copy
of “The Times” I discover that the UK is apparently now a land of
opportunity for the over 65s. Gone are the days when such folk found
themselves 'forced' into retirement. Now more and more of them are
'benefiting' from the 'flexibility' of zero hours contracts. Most of
these people are also employed at minimum wage level apparently,
another wonderful plus for the UK economy.
In the world of spin, even
the ugliest of facts can be made to sound pleasant. The reality, it
seems, is that elderly people find themselves increasingly having to
work whether they wish to or not. The already meagre allowances are
being steadily chipped away by the powers that be whilst the state in
the UK is increasingly unwilling to help even the most desperate of
folk (unless, of course, the folk in question are the likes of
Russian millionaires, Chinese property speculators or hugely wealthy
non-doms who seem to somehow manage to maintain that status despite
the fact that they have lived in the UK for up to 30 years).
It seems that it is not
enough to have a society based on the wage slavery, but if at all
possible, the desire from the upper echelons of government seems to
be that the slavery continues until the moment the slave in question
shuffles off their mortal coil.
The Chancellor, George
Gideon Oliver Osborne, formerly known as the 'Oik of St. Paul's' and
yet another member of the Bullingdon Club, has developed a fondness
in recent times for preaching about the 'dignity of work'. Sometimes
the dignity in question seems harder to witness in practice than to
espouse in theory, the reality often involving, as it does, employees
being forced to work long hours at the beck and call of fickle
employers who currently enjoy the benefits of some very 'flexible'
labour practices. These entail such things as the aforementioned zero
hours contracts, compulsory and often unpaid overtime and a steady
eroding away of even the most basic of decent working conditions. Mr.
Osborne, it should perhaps be noted, has never had what used to be
quaintly termed as a 'proper' job himself...
The American essayist, and
very profound thinker, Henry David Thoreau pointed out the nature of
the trap that we are all lured into. In his book 'Walden' he devotes
the whole of the first chapter to 'Economy'. In it he shows how we
are tempted and seduced by the desire to have so many 'things' we do
not need and how being enslaved in such a way keeps us having to work
long hours at jobs we often hate in order to acquire them. We are
enticed, through the skilful machinations of the advertising
industry, into greed, into the absurd belief that if we can only
acquire enough things that this is somehow, almost magically, going
to make us happy.
Thoreau demonstrates with
incisive insight that excess possessions not only require excess
labour in order to purchase them, but also often end up simply being
a burden, something we need to concern ourselves with because they
need cleaning, maintaining or even simply storing. People believe
they need these things and this 'need' then forces them into devoting
much of their waking time to working long hours in order to have
these often completely useless items in their lives.
Advertising feeds into this
'need'. It persuades people that they are measured, or somehow
validated, by their ownership of objects. It has them chasing after
the acquisition of endless 'stuff'. On visiting people's homes, I am
often struck by just how much 'stuff' they own. Things that are never
used, that seemed a good idea at the time, that now lay neglected and
unused in the 'spare' room or garage, or simply cluttering up every available space in the property. This seems to be the case as
much with those of limited pecuniary means as for those fortunate
enough to find themselves in better financial straits.
Happy, fruitful and
fulfilled lives are not achieved by the endless acquisition of stuff,
but by doing things that have meaning and value to the individual
concerned. Whether that be through family, through relationship,
through service, through the expression of talents and the doing of
things that one loves, or simply by following the kind of life one
wants to live.
Of course it is often
necessary to have sources of income and the means to achieve these
things, but often far, far less is needed than would be supposed to
be the case.
Standing
in the way of people's abilities to lead free and expressive lives
is often the phenomenon of debt. The system is almost set up in such
a way as to ensure that debt is taken on from a very early age
(indeed, in the case of students, even before they are working) and
piled on from that stage onwards through the acquisition of cars,
houses, appliances, etc., so that most people, for the vast majority
of their adult lives, are never out of debt.
It seems that very soon the
average UK household debt level will top £10,000. This figure, quite
amazingly, doesn't include mortgage debt. In
excess of a quarter of
all British adults of working age spend more than 40% of their income
simply to service their debts. They are having
to run faster and
faster just to stay still.
Back
in the Dada café, the lunchtime crowd have come and gone and the
staff are busily washing the tiles, attempting
to make a clean slate
of things perhaps... My final thoughts are of Henry David Thoreau and
his notion, when writing
about economy, that the most precious thing we possess in
life is time. For him,
the idea of spending the days, weeks, months and years of our
lives
doing tasks we hate to
obtain things we don't need
seemed like an absurdity.
I, for one, would not
disagree.
“When Small men begin to cast big shadows, it means that the sun is about to set.”
Lin Yutang
Early May in the UK, and I
find myself enduring the fairly typical weather in these islands. It
is generally cold, wet and windy, although happily it is about to
improve, at least if the forecasters of the BBC are to be believed.
The one day in the last week that was an exception to the ongoing
gloom was Thursday, the day on which the general election was held.
In the UK, the advent of decent weather for such a day was supposed
to improve the turnout. It did … in Scotland at least. South of the
border the turnout was much the same as usual, at around 65 %. As the
winning party managed to poll 36.7%, this effectively meant that only
about 1 person in every 4 actually voted for them. In the strangely
undemocratic democratic system of the UK, this is enough to give the
winning party a majority.
There was much frustration
all around, perhaps none more poignant than than of UKIP (United
Kingdom Independence Party). Personally, I have little sympathy with
their views, but much empathy with their frustration. On the day they
polled 12.6% of the vote, approximately a third of the Conservative
party's 36.7%. The result? The Conservatives end up with 331 times
the 1 seat that was given to UKIP in this bizarre system.
UKIP also managed to
attract something like two and a half times the number of votes that
the SNP (Scottish Nationalist Party) polled. Again, their 3,881,129
votes gave them just the one seat, whilst the SNP's 1,454,436 gave
them 56. One wonders if this is an example of the kind of 'democracy'
that the West has been so keen to impose on the rest of the planet in
recent times. The 'first past the post' system employed in the UK
seems to be a pretty random form of democracy at best.
In the end, the
conservative with a 'small c' United Kingdom ended up with a
Conservative with a 'big C' government, as is their usual wont in
these islands. The only interruption in the last 36 years of
Conservative rule came when the Labour Party essentially ditched any
notion of being socialist and became instead a mirror image of the
Conservatives. Basically, they out-toried the Tories. This seems to
be just about the only way they have any chance of being elected in
this somewhat insular country. Napoleon Bonaparte was perhaps
displaying a fair degree of insight when he made the observation some
two hundred years ago: “L'Angleterre est une nation de
boutiquiers.”
One of the things I have
not missed about the UK is the class warfare, although it seems to be
a battle fought by just one side these days. The wealthy, and those
many politicians who represent their interests, seem forever engaged
in finding new ways to dis-empower the poor and make their plight
ever more desperate. The poor, for their part, are just struggling to keep their heads
above the ever rising tide. The word class is perhaps particularly
apt in this context, given that many of our current crops of Tories,
at least the influential ones, shared the same school, Eton. Some of
these, notably Messrs. Cameron, Osborne and Johnson, went on to
Oxford, joining the (in)famous Bullingdon Club and having a jolly spiffing time...
Oh well, as an old friend
used to say, 'If things don't change, they will stay the same.' Or
perhaps the Thai saying, 'same old, same old' is more applicable
here.
Within a week or two, after
the euphoria of victory, it will be back to the internecine
in-fighting that the Tories specialise in. If things revert to the
normal pattern that the Conservative Party loves to indulge in, there
will be endless trench warfare within the party, factions within
factions, particularly over the issue of Europe. One of the joys of
travelling is leaving all this far behind.
Hopefully, within a week or
two, I can set out once more for another part of the world and leave
the rather dull, archaic and downright illogical machinations of the
UK's political system to its own devices. There is some chance that I
will be able to head off to Spain, perhaps Girona, Barcelona or
Tarragona, in the very near future. If all goes well, I intend to
spend at least a day or two in Madrid as well. Given the current
state of the weather, and the current state of the politics here in
the UK, the continuation of my travels cannot come too soon for this
nomadic flaneur.
Much as it pains me to say,
this week I find myself in tax dodging Starbucks, in its Epping incarnation, famed for
its 'Swiss' coffee and creative accountancy. My excuse is that I
needed a decent internet connection and also a little space away from
friends, many of whom view the idea of contributing to Starbucks'
coffers with some distaste.
After another week in the
UK, I realise that my definition of a pleasant day seems to have
changed quite drastically over the past couple of years. Gone are the
days of finding 18 or 19 degrees centigrade comfortable; after
spending weeks, or even months, in the mid thirties, such days now
seem positively chilly. Odd too how one notices all the little aches
and pains that a body is heir too in such weather as is prevalent
here in the UK. In Southern China and, particularly, in Thailand,
such things scarce came to my attention. Perhaps the last few years
have rather spoilt me in this way, now the prospect of spending
months of one's year in such a climate as here in the UK seems
positively unpleasant.
One of the most positive
aspects of my recent travels has been just how healthy, how
energetic, I had been feeling. I am, hopefully, not quite over the
hill yet, but certainly could be described as a tad long in the
tooth. Yet during the past five months it has been noticeable just
how well, how energetic, how downright healthy I have felt.
For much of this time I
have become increasingly interested in Chinese health systems that
relate to the idea of chi. For those who have never heard of such
a notion, chi is defined as a universal energy that exists in all
living things. To feel well, according to this paradigm, one has to
find ways of increasing one's chi, or at least to having access to
good quality chi. The latter, in the Chinese system, is considered a
matter of clearing the body of stagnant and stale chi, and replacing
it with fresh and flowing chi. The techniques evolved by the Chinese
Taoists were originally known as qigong. As ever with Chinese, the
sound of the words is a lot more exotic than its literal translation
of 'energy work'.
Over the last few years, such esoteric health systems seem to have played a significant role in my life. At times, it almost feels as if these ideas have found me, rather than me them. My first
exposure to the concept came about seven or eight years ago now. At
the time I was severely incapacitated due to nerve damage from a
previous climbing accident, the effects of which had dogged me for
most of my adult life.
One day, whilst wandering
along a local High Road, supported by a pair of walking sticks, I
happened to notice an advert for acupuncture in the window of a shop
that specialised in all things Chinese, and particularly Traditional
Medicine. I tended to notice a lot of such things in those days. One of the benefits of finding one's normal walking pace to be as painfully slow as mine was at the time, is that one finds one
has time to notice an awful lot more detail than was previously the case when I would blithely yet somewhat blindly wander the streets in good health. In my youth, I had often rushed around at a helter skelter rate as is the rather over-urgent norm of our present day society.
On enquiring how much such
treatment would set me back, I was informed it would require a rather
chunky £360 for 12 sessions. At other times, I might have been
reluctant to spend such sums on what seemed to me to be a
somewhat fanciful form of treatment, but as being confined to using a
pair of walking sticks just to get about tends to restrict the things
one wishes to spend money on, it seemed a reasonable idea to at
least give acupuncture a chance.
I think my interest was
also piqued as the year before I had spent much time in researching a
book about the idea of a vital life force, and how this same idea
seems to crop up again and again, being found in different guises in
many cultures and spiritual systems around the World. I had managed
to complete several chapters of the book covering such interesting
notions as prana in yoga, huna in the Hawaiian spiritual system, odic
force as explicated by Von Reichenbach in the 19th century, Henri
Bergson's Elan Vital and even Wilhelm Reich's intensely sexual idea
of a universal orgone energy.
Researching and writing
about such things had been a pleasurable experience as I found many
similarities in these various systems, and was fast confirming the
idea that they were all essentially talking about the same thing,
albeit using vastly different terminologies. All was going well with the book until I reached the chapter that was to deal with the Chinese
Taoist idea of chi. Although it was clear that the concept was, in
many ways at least, quite similar to the other examples, it seemed
that the more I looked into it, the more complex and the more subtle
the ideas became. In the end, it struck me as unfair that I should
mislead any potential readers of the book by pretending I had
sufficient knowledge of the concept of chi to warrant giving my
opinions on the subject.
My first practical exposure
to these ideas came with that first course of acupuncture. Many of a
more scientific bent tend to want to decry the effects of this system
and, it has to be admitted, there are many aspects that don't easily
fit into Western ideas as to how the body works. Some of the critics
tend to observe that any positive effects are probably down to
placebo effects alone. My own expectations had been initially very
low, but I did think that, given my parlous state at the time, it was
worth trying at least.
Despite my low
expectations, within a few weeks I was able to do away with one of
the sticks. Within another month, I was walking unaided for the first
time in quite a while. Whether I understood what was occurring or
not, clearing something had changed. At the end of the treatment, I
found myself walking relatively normally again and, quite pleasantly,
out of real pain for the first time in years. There was a leftover
numbness that stretched down the side of my right leg and into the
foot, making moving the toes of that foot more or less impossible,
but it seemed a small price to pay, generally preferring pleasantly
numb to positively painful.
Such experiences made me
quite open to the suggestion that I should indulge in a little qigong
whilst I was in China. Again my expectations were relatively low, but
even after a short while my flexibility began to improve. Also, my
general sense of well-being, of joie-de-vivre even, had clearly taken
a turn for the better.
After about three weeks I
began to notice that feeling was returning to my toes and, lo and
behold, for the first time in years I was actually beginning to move
them again. At first the movements were slow, barely perceptible in
fact. I even dismissed them originally as mere wish fulfilment. Over
time though, little by little, strength began to return, and with
that strength came an ability to balance on that foot once again.
My understanding of nerve
damage had led me to believe that such results were nigh on
impossible, but on the other hand, it is hard to deny one's own
personal experiences even if they don't fit the paradigms one it
given by Western medicine. In the couple of months since, the
numbness has continued to subside but the old pain has not returned
and, as an added bonus, the strength seems to be gradually returning
to muscles that had been dormant for many a year.
Looking back on my time in
China from a distance of some weeks, I have come to realise that much
of what I valued and enjoyed in China were the remnants of the past,
the gifts of a long and fascinating history. The philosophy, the
spiritual systems, even the architecture of previous dynastys has
left China with a deep and rich source of inspiration and guidance
which, unfortunately, much of modern China seems to be busily
ignoring in its headlong rush towards a supposed modernity, which
expresses itself by way of aping the worst excesses of Western
decadence and capitalism.
As I sit here, slightly
shamefacedly enjoying the delights of a fairtrade coffee in Starbucks
in Epping, I find myself once more yearning to go back and enjoy the
best of what China has to offer, even if that emotion is mixed with a
dread of the worst. Yangshuo, with its clear waters, beautiful peaks,
wonderful vistas and clean air beckons just as much as the East Coast
cities with their constant noise, teeming crowds and choking
pollution repel.
China is forever an enigma,
its history and culture being both fascinatingly deep and subtle
whilst simultaneously its modern developments are ugly and
depersonalising almost beyond believe. I find myself both loving and
loathing the place in almost equal measure...