Saturday
morning in Kanchanaburi catching up on the news from the UK on the
BBC. Seems that yet another storm has shed yet more rain on an
already saturated Britain. I find myself feeling almost guilty as I
look up through the eaves of the Jolly Frog to the relentlessly blue
sky beyond. This is the place that started the backpacking boom in
this part of Thailand. It is looking a little dilapidated now and
probably needs a facelift but... there is something comforting and
really rather pleasant in its state of easy going neglect. The main
eating area consists of a vast roof supported on tree trunks, the
sides completely open which tends to lend a freshness to the place
which is aided and abetted by several huge fans hanging from the
ceiling. Plants have run wild over time and now hang down in curtains
of creepers that create natural partitions between parts of the
restaurant (that seems too grand a word for this place – maybe
'cafe' would be more accurate).
This
has become my favourite place to write during my month in
Kanchanaburi. I order the requisite coffee for the princely sum of 20
baht and usually a watermelon smoothie and some roles (no butter, as
I am presently experimenting with veganism) to supply the much needed
refreshment that this process requires. The whole lot totals some 65
baht (roughly £1.20), not at all bad. I remember some years ago, in
my early flaneurial days, having a coffee in St. Marks Square in
Venice – the coffee alone was somewhere in excess of £5. I have to
admit though, the setting was wonderful!
Life
is indeed very relaxing in this part of the world. There is an easy
going ambience that pervades so much of life here. The people are
friendly and generous, the culture interesting and the flora and
fauna fascinating. It certainly feels very different after China with
its feverish chasing after economic success. I am told that Japan, in
many ways, is even worse. Despite the success of the economy in China
it seems that people are required to chase ever harder just to keep
up. Rather than bringing increasing leisure and other benefits to the
society, the vast majority find themselves required to work longer
and longer hours while the benefits are reaped by a smaller and
smaller section at the very top of the economic pyramid. This same
process seems to have been experienced in many economies around the
world. As a certain politician recently put it: "They
used to say 'a rising tide lifts all boats'. Now the rising tide just
seems to lift yachts."
This
increasing insecurity for the general populace has been experienced
particularly keenly in Japan with its deep acceptance of the work
ethic and the fundamentally hierarchical structure of its society.
After the sixties and seventies boom Japan found itself entering a
prolonged period of economic stagnation which has only ended in very
recent times. Job security became increasingly tenuous. People were
required to work longer and longer hours, the extra time often being
unpaid as the employees more or less felt obliged to work in such a
way to keep their jobs. This eventually led to what started out as a
typically Japanese reaction; the phenomenon of 'Karoshi'. The
Japanese word 'Karoshi' can be simply translated as 'death due to
overwork' although this does not tell the whole story. There is an
element of suicide in this phenomenon, of deliberately working to the
point of precipitating one's own demise.
This
attitude to work is perhaps unique to the Japanese mentality although
there have in recent times been examples in the West. Increasingly
employers seem to have the same expectations as Japanese companies.
The notion that your whole life should be based around your
employment is implicit in these assumptions. Increasing economic
insecurity, despite the recent turn around in Western economies, has
led to the expectation that people will indeed work longer and longer
hours simply through the fear of losing their jobs.
A
very close friend of mine had a job that required her to work thirty
hours a week in a school in East London. Even though her hours were 8
in the morning until 3 in the afternoon, with one hour's unpaid
lunch, she often found herself working until half past three or even
four. Some years ago her employer decreased her hours to 25 per week
but, oddly, she still found herself working from 8 in the morning
until well after 3 in the afternoon. A year or two later the hours
were further decreased to 20 per week. Hmm, I think it is unnecessary
for me to repeat here as you'll have worked out how this 'reduction'
actually functioned. Now she works 18 hours a week. She often starts
before 8 in the morning now and often finds herself there until after
five at night, five days a week. Mathematics have never been my
strong point but I am pretty sure that works out to something
substantially in excess of 18 hours a week.
I
see my friend when I am back in the UK. She is a decent, honest
person with a sensitive and intelligent nature. Every time I see her
she looks a little more tired, a little more strained. Occasionally I
will talk to her about this process. She understands what is
happening but feels obliged to go along with it. So many these days
feel themselves trapped in such situations. It may not quite be
Karoshi but it is not far from it. We often hear businessmen and
politicians, particularly those of the right, arguing for 'more
flexible work practices'. Another fine sounding euphemism! What is
actually desired by such folk is the power to demand more and more
for less and less, often relying on job insecurity as a way of
squeezing blood out of a stone.
It
seems to be rarely pointed out but there is something fundamentally
unsound in all of this, something fundamentally wrong. The
shortcomings of the Japanese 'work until you drop' philosophy were
amply demonstrated during WW2. Recently I visited the 'Death
Railway' near the small town I am staying in, Kanchanaburi. The
railway was built using allied Prisoners of War and Asian workers
(Romusha) from occupied territories. Those unfortunate to find
themselves working on this project were subject to the most awful
privations and, frankly, quite inhuman treatment by the Japanese.
They were ill-fed, brutalised and overworked. Very shortly the men
would weaken and fall ill because of the demands placed upon them. As
this continued their productivity dropped. Working when you are
tired, in pain and underfed is pretty commonly accepted not to be the
ideal I think. The Japanese response? They worked people harder, fed
them less, imposed longer hours, etc. To the mentality of the
Japanese captors this made sense. The result? The project fell
further and further behind schedule as the decreasing workforce found
itself under greater and greater pressure. Maybe there is a lesson
here?
Visiting
the site of these atrocities one is struck with just how peaceful it
is now. Indeed, one may even say that the views from Hellfire Pass
are beautiful – a huge valley through which the Kwai Noi river
flows beneath the shade of lush forests and the most delicately
exquisite flora that one could wish to see. All is quiet now and it
is hard to imagine the kind of scenes that once gave the pass its
name.
Back
in The Jolly Frog the cafe has become busier now and the day a little
warmer. Ex-pats read newspapers with two day old articles about the
terrible weather in the UK. Others, like myself, sit here tapping
away at our laptops, communicating with a distant world so different
from where we find ourselves. I slowly sip at my banana shake (one
has to be aware of the need for constant hydration in 30+ degrees C)
thinking about the implications of this piece.
The unhappy world of job insecurity and virtual karoshi seem like
they are from another and very bizarre reality. There has to be a
better way...
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