On this gorgeous
morning your correspondent finds himself sitting in a rather
comfortable armchair on the upper deck of a two storey raft
moored on the River Kwai. The raft itself is the property of the Noble House
Hotel, an establishment whose hospitality I have enjoyed the pleasure
of during the past week. The main grounds of the hotel are located on
the river bank in the town of Kanchanaburi, Thailand. The place
itself is eminently peaceful. My reveries are only briefly
interrupted by the groaning of the raft as she settles ever more
comfortably down upon the water and the amorous calls of a variety of
tropical birds who seem, unlike myself, undismayed by the
ever-present heat. Tropical fruit bearing plants grow abundantly on the small islet in front of me: mangoes, bananas, coconuts and more. The
odd lizards scurries across the decking. In some ways it almost seems
too pleasant, as if one is on a film set rather than reality, so
perfect is the setting.
All this peace
somewhat belies the political conflict going on in this land at the
time of writing. Although Kanchanaburi seems completely serene,
apart from the odd drunken reveller or Chinese person letting off
fire crackers to celebrate the imminent arrival of the Year of the Horse, it is
not so in the capital, Bangkok, nor in many other areas of the South.
Thai politics, it seems, are horrendously complicated. The enmities
between the rival factions are deep and bitter. The main parties are
locked in a death-match to gain control of the governance of this
country. As ever with politicians, they promise all kinds of reforms
and changes if only you will vote for them. Also, as ever, the
reality usually degrades into one form of corruption or another once
they actually achieve the sought after power. This patterns seems
ubiquitous the world over although in the West we are often better at
hiding, or even institutionalising, our corruption. We sometimes speak of advisers from industry on trade missions when what is really meant is arms dealers (suitably suited and booted of course, but arms dealers nevertheless) or lobbyists in parliament whose soul raison d'etre is to
influence government in favour of whatever corporation they
represent.
Here in Thailand the main parties
have wonderfully idealistic sounding names such as the United Front for
Democracy Against Dictatorship or the People's Democratic Reform
Committee.
The latter has been the
main instigator behind the problems in the capital of late. There is
an election due to take place on February 2nd. Unfortunately for the
PDRC it is an election they are very likely to lose. Therefore,
rather than campaigning harder to convince people of their relative
merit, the party has decided that what the country needs is an
interim government that is to be appointed rather than elected before
any further elections are to take place. Naturally such a government
would have a large number of representatives from the PDRC. How's
that for democratic reform!? The democratic reform they seem to have
in mind gets rid of democracy itself!
Unfortunately, in
human affairs, and particularly those involving politics and
politicians, these oxymoronic paradoxes are all too common place. The
eminently wise George Orwell ably pointed this out in his political opus
'1984'. In that book the Ministry of Truth was responsible for
propaganda, the Ministry of Love oversaw the imprisonment and torture
of those deemed threatening to the system, and the Ministry of Peace
was primarily engaged in prosecuting wars. Old George knew a thing or
two about how these things work. Years later, another George, who
unfortunately didn't seem to know very much about anything at all,
was still cunning enough to use similarly misleading euphemisms when
describing the activities of his government (you will understand that
I use the word 'government' in its loosest sense when referring to
the regime of George W. Bush).
Perhaps, amongst the
many examples of double-speak that spring to mind when talking of the
doings of GWB, the most obvious examples would be the employment of such terms as
'enhanced interrogation techniques' (read – torturing people),
'extraordinary rendition' (read - moving people to places where they
could be tortured) and 'protective custody' (read – imprisoning
people without charge or trial). Such semantic machinations would be
merely amusing if it were not for their dark intent.
Meanwhile, back in
Thailand the election is fast approaching and the PCDR is preparing
for the big day by promising not to disenfranchise people or block
them from expressing their democratic right to cast a vote. They say
their intention is merely to protest and make their point at the polling
stations throughout Bangkok and the South. What this actually means
in practice is that they intend, if at all possible, to disenfranchise people and block
their democratic right to cast a vote.
Tis ever strange how
such promises on the lips of politicos so often mean the exact
opposite of the words spoken. One thinks of a certain Nick Clegg and
his promise not to raise tuition fees in the UK or George's dad,
George Bush Snr, who once famously stated: “Read my lips, no new
taxes” and then promptly created some once elected.
Some things never
change it would appear – the dissimulation of politicians seems to
be as unlimited as their desire for us to trust them, despite the
long and inglorious history that would indicate that, for the most
part, it would be wiser not to .
Back on the raft
floating gently on the Kwai all remains the very essence of serenity. The amorously
inclined birds know little of such political shenanigans and care
even less. I sip my coffee and wonder at the gullibility of people to
forever believe in such characters. They come, they fool a few people
for a time, they go again only to be replaced by the next generation.
Sitting here in the
morning sun it is hard not to be impressed by the sheer beauty of
this country. As I look over to my left the river bank is ablaze with
colour as the bougainvillea cascades down towards the water. Here and
there orchids hang gracefully down, so exquisite, seemingly so
delicate. It all feels so calm, so serene right now. I only hope that
this peace remains in the days and weeks following the upcoming
elections. Your nomadic flaneur has no wish to become a war
correspondent.
Only time will tell.
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